We left Rome in a rental car and learned the first rule of driving in Italy at the desk, not on the road. What the counter actually costs, and the thirty-one photographs that protect you.

Prati to the Spanish Steps on foot in a single day — the café rules, the route, the Pantheon, and what Rome felt like four days after a new pope was elected.

Thirteen hours in the air, then Rome. The cheap airport bus from Fiumicino into the city — what it costs, where it drops you, and what the ride is like when your legs don’t believe they’re done sitting.